Category: Europe

Why did no one tell me about Stockholm sooner? I’m a little bit jaded toward all of my travel friends for failing to inform me just how amazing Sweden is. Especially for kids. Our family recently took a little weekend trip up north, and we give Stockholm 5 great big, gold stars for family friendliness. What an unexpected delight. We spent 2 days here but I wish we could have spent 2 weeks. Kids of all ages will find loads of fun activities in Stockholm, Sweden.

Gamla Stan: This is Stockholm’s old town. The architecture and the little streets are packed with old world charm.  This is a really fun place to explore. There are lots quaint shops and cafes and places to see. Not to mention that it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Some of the buildings in this area date back to the 1300s. The streets are made of cobblestone, so we would recommend going without a stroller if you can; try to opt for a child carrier instead (see our review of child carrier backpacks here). If you really need the stroller try to take one with nice big wheels because it will make a difference.

Here are a few things not to miss in your wanderings around Gamla Stan:

• Royal Castle – This is the actual residence of the Swedish Royal Family, and it is packed with things to do and see. You could spend a whole day here if you had the time. Some of the highlights for kids might include a tour of the Royal Stables (Saturday’s at 1:00pm), the changing of the guard (Daily at noon*), the Royal Armory, and a brand new exhibition of Princess Lilian’s dresses that little girls are sure to love.
• Polkagris Kokeri Candy Shop – We happened upon the cutest old fashion candy shop. It’s in the southwest quadrant of Gamla Stan. If you are in the area make sure to wander in for a demonstration and a free sample of peppermint candy. Both the Swedes and the Finns lay claim to the invention of salted licorice candy, but regardless of where it actually originated you can try a taste of it here. Even if you miss the demonstration, you can ask for a sample of almost anything in the little store and they will likely indulge you.
• Great Views – Our kids also loved just standing on the edge of the water and watching the big cruise ships come in and out of port. There is a great birds eye view of the city from an outlook deck called the Skyview. It’s free with the Stockholm card or 130 SEK for an adult ticket. To get there, you take the T-bana (metro) to the “Globen” stop and then walk southeast for about 250 meters.
• Yummy Food – If you’re looking for restaurant suggestions, check out this link for places to eat with kids in Gamla Stan.

*note that the changing of the guard is a very busy time at the Palace. So, if you want to see anything, you’ll want to get there early.

Djurgårdsbron Bridge – It’s about a half and hour walk or a twenty minute tram ride (tram 76) to get from Östermalm (the main island) to Djurgården (the eastern island).  If the weather is good, we suggest the walk. You’ll  cross the bridge and see some amazing views, with the harbor on one side and some stunning architecture on the other. Keep your eyes open for the statues of the 4 Old Norse Gods (Heimdall, Gjallarhorn, Frigg, and Thor) that line the walkway.

Djurgården: This is the big island that is just to the East of Gamla Stan. It’s more open with some great parks and things to do outside. There are are also some fantastic kid friendly museums. Keep in mind that the prices for a hotel stay are much cheaper over here than down town, so you may want to consider booking your hotel in this part of the city. We stayed in a family style room at the Scandic Hasselbacken and would highly recommend it. Here are the must see ticket items in Djurgården:

• The Vasa Museum: This is our #1 pick in Stockholm — for adults and kids alike. The Vasa is a Swedish War ship that was built in about 1628. She sank on her Maiden Voyage, less than a nautical mile from port. Yet, because of this tragedy, the Vasa is one of the most well preserved shipwrecks in history. It’s honestly amazing. If you only had 2 hours in Stockholm, this is what I would tell you to see. Actually, if you only had 2 hours in Scandinavia, this is still probably what I would tell you to see.

• Skansen – The best open air museum/zoo we’ve ever seen. Everything, and I mean everything, is taylor made for children. I can’t remember the last time I had so much fun on an outing with my kids. I feel like the people that designed Skansen thought to themselves, “how could I best explore this place if I were 5-years-old?” I wish we could go here every day. If you have little kids, do not miss it! I would say that the target age is 2-12 but there is plenty to entertain older kids as well. There are lots of little shops and cultural experiences, as well as a fantastic zoo. Plan to spend at least a half a day here.At the entrance, I would recommend paying the extra fee to take the tram up to the top, because the walk up is very steep and will be difficult for kids. You can also ask for a map and a timetable of events: there are demonstrations and feeding times that will help you make the most of your time. You can also download a free app that will help you navigate this amazing childhood treasure.
• Gröna Lund – An awesome little amusement park. It’s right on the water and has a whole bunch of great looking rides and roller coasters. There are attractions for both smaller and bigger kids, making it a great place for the whole family. Note that Gröna Lund is closed during the winter and usually opens again around early April. Check the website for official opening dates.

• Museums – There are several museums that we didn’t have time to visit, including: The Nordic Museum (pictured), The Junibacken (children’s museum), and The Swedish National Museum of Science and Technology. You might also want to pop by The ABBA Museum. It’s right around the corner from Gröna Lund. Go ahead and get your Dancing Queen on — we won’t judge. If you make it to these places before we do, be sure to let us know how you liked them.

Drottningholm: If you are looking for a good day trip, Drottingholm is about a 45 minute train ride from downtown. It’s probably only worth going on the weekend as Drottningholm Palace is only open on Saturdays and Sundays from 12 to 3:30pm. Other things to see in Drottningholm include: The Drottingholm Palace Theater (also a UNESCO World Heritage site), The Lovön Church, and the Chinese Pavilion.

Getting Around: As far as getting to the city center is concerned, it’s pretty straight forward from the airport. You can take a train from the airport terminal to the central train station. The train is called the Arlandae Express. The trip takes about 20 min. There is a kid’s car in the center of the train, and children up to age 17 ride for free! If you come by boat or by train, you should be dropped off right in the city center. Once you are there, Stockholm is completely walkable. Public transportation is also very well laid out, and Taxis are plentiful. You won’t have any problem finding your way.

We love our family travel adventures and we have good things to say about almost everywhere we have been, but from a family travel standpoint Stockholm tops the list! I think you’ll be hard pressed to find a more kid friendly city. We loved our short trip to Sweden so much that we are already planning the next time we can go back.

St. Petersburg has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember, and let me tell you what — Russia did not disappoint. This is a city that is filled to the brim with culture. It’s one of those places I could visit again and again . . . and maybe again. I would say that you probably want to spend at least 3 or 4 days here, but if you stayed for a week or two you wouldn’t run out of things to see. We’ve put together a list of our top recommendations for exploring the “Paris of the north.”

The Hermitage – One good thing about visiting this museum during peak tourist season is that while it may be crowded and noisy, it is crowded and noisy. Thus, your kids don’t have to be the portrait of perfection. No one will notice if they are a little bit wiggly or even a little bit loud. Even in the off-season, the Hermitage is a pretty busy place, so plan for a crowd almost any time of the year. With the little ones in tow you’ll never see it all, so here is a great top 10 list if you are looking to hit the highlights. Also, before you brave this epic gallery, you might want to read our tips on taking kids to museums. (Note: The Hermitage is closed on Monday’s.)

St. Isaac’s – This Cathedral took 40 years to construct. It is 333ft. tall and is plated in pure gold. From both the inside and outside it is a beautiful building. The interior used to have canvas paintings, but due to the cold, damp environment, the paintings began deteriorating, and have been replaced almost entirely with mosaics. There is a ticket office on the North East side of the structure (near the tour bus parking), where you can buy tickets to enter the museum and the dome, which you can climb for a fantastic view of the city. There are 200+ stairs to get to the top. We carried our littlest one but our 3-year-old made the trek just fine. The top is completely protected, so there is no worry of kids falling from a height. Keep in mind that St. Isaac’s, as well as many of the other top tourist sites in the city, is closed on Wednesday’s.

In the park to the north of the cathedral, there is a wonderful little playground where the kids can take a break and play for a while. It’s about half way between St. Isaac’s and the statue of the Bronze Horseman (and just a bit to the east). The Bronze Horseman is a giant statue of Peter the Great, and is situated atop the thunder stone (the largest stone ever moved by man). The statue is about a 10 minute walk from St. Isaac’s, so be sure not to miss it if you are in the area. It is akin to the Statue of Liberty for Russia.

The Peterhof Palace – This gem is often called the Russian Versailles — and for good reason. The interior is both interesting and beautiful, and for an extra fee you can take a short tour. The real reason to go, however, is to see the gardens. Wow! 500 acres of fountains, sculptures, and immaculately groomed flora: all right on the waterfront. You can spend a whole day here, but you can certainly squeeze it in to a half day if you are short on time. As you wander, you’ll find lots of fun things for the kids. Many of the fountains are designed to splash in and get you wet. Our kids had a great time playing in the water and skipping through the shaded pathways. What a backyard. This is a wonderful way to spend a summer day. Here is a great list of some of the fun things not to miss with kids at the Peterhof.

You can get there by bus or train from the Baltiskiy Station (about 45 min. to an hour). If you have a car, you can also make the drive in about an hour. However, the best (and most fun) way to get to the Peterhof Palace is by Hydrofoil (35 min). At the end of the Marine Canal, you’ll find several companies that run regular waterfront services to and from the main entrance of the palace.

The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood – This was our FAVORITE thing that we saw in St. Petersburg. When you picture Russia in your mind, this is what your imagination draws up. The church was built  on the site of the assassination of Emperor Alexander II. It is constructed in the classic 17th century Russian style. Bright colored mosaics and onion domed towers adorn the outside of the church. The exterior is stunning, but pales in comparison the interior. Once inside, you’ll find more than 7,500 square meters of mosaics: the majority having been made with real gold leaf. This church, all by itself, is worth the trip to St. Petersburg (Closed Wednesday’s).

The Peter and Paul Fortress – This fortress is a  bit off the beaten path, but it’s a fun area to walk around and explore. Every day at noon, a blank shot is fired from the cannon at the Naryshkin Bastion. It’s a tradition that dates back to 1873 as a way for the citizens to synchronize their watches. On Saturdays, after the shot is fired, you can watch the ceremonial changing of the guard. Aside from the Naryshkin Bastion, the fortress houses a museum, a bell tower, and the beautiful Peter and Paul Cathedral.

If you are looking to grab a bite, there is a fantastic, family friendly restaurant in the area. It’s called Koryushkyu, and it’s located on the southwest corner of the fortress island. DO order the corn soup. DON’T order the bottled water – it’s imported and REALLY expensive. Go for an apple juice or a soda instead. The food is fantastic and there is a great play area for the kids. Sometimes I still dream about this place. SO good!

Getting there – Overall, just remember that Russia has very strict entrance and exit laws. Thus, you will most likely need a visa to enter. It can be a bit confusing, so we would recommend going through a third-party organization to secure your visa’s and make sure can safely enter and exit the country. However, if you enter by Ferry from Helsinki, Stockholm, or Tallinn, you can sidestep the visa requirements (but you are only allowed to stay for 72 hours). The St. Peter’s Ferry Line (now operated by MOBY travel) is the only company that makes the journey. We’ve entered and exited Russia by boat, train, and plane. I will say that if you can afford the Visa fee, the process of coming in by train (from Helsinki) or by plane is much smoother. The ferry feels a bit more stressful, but it is absolutely doable with kids.

All in all, we found St. Petersburg to be a warm and friendly place. We felt safe and comfortable and had a great stay. It’s a fun vacation spot for kids and adults alike, and by far my favorite city in Russia.

The Baltic States are some of the most underestimated locations in all of Europe. They don’t really fit in any category. It’s not Western Europe, it’s not Easter Europe, and it’s not quite Scandinavia. Instead, this area has a charm and a vibe that is completely original. If you haven’t been to this region before, we would highly recommend a visit. And if you avoid traditional Lithuanian food we promise you’ll have a fantastic time. To help you out, we’ve mapped a course of our favorite cities in the neighborhood.

Northern Poland

Gdańsk – While Poland is not technically a Baltic State, there are a few places in the northern part of the country that border the Sea and are worth a visit. Our first must see stop along the Baltic Coast is Gdańsk, Poland. It is a great city with a long, rich history. The entire Old Town of Gdańsk is really remarkable. Right along the water there is a beautiful and well-preserved medieval port crane. It was built in 1442, making it the oldest one in Europe. We would also recommend that you don’t miss the National Maritime Museum (where you can board and explore the SS Sołdek), The Green and Gold Gates, Artus Court, St. Mary’s Church, and the beautiful Amber shops. For a half day trip, you can sail (on one of the fancy ships in the harbor) to the Hel Peninsula. That’s right, you can take a Pirate ship to Hel!

The big highlight for our kids in Gdańsk was the Ciucui Cukier Artist Candy Factory. This shop is located at 64/64 ulica Dluga and every hour they do a free demonstration. Here, they hand make traditional Polish Rock Candy and sometimes lucky customers – like our 2-year-old daughter – get invited behind the counter to help! Every demonstration ends with big smiles and free samples. It’s a must see and a must taste on the bucket list.

 Sopot- Just a quick half-hour train ride north from Gdańsk is the city of Sopot with its legendary Boardwalk. The Pier itself is totally empty and costs money to walk along (not worth it in our book). But everything leading up to it is full of fun and color. It’s a quirky little town with a whole lot of character. Street performers, vendors, and art fill up this little city with charm. The Sopot Beach is a beautiful (but crowded) place to relax on soft sand and swim in cold water. Try visiting in May or September when school is in session. That way the crowds are low but sun is still high and the weather is beautiful.

Malbork – In the opposite direction, another great day trip from Gdańsk is the Malbork Casltle. It’s just a half hour train ride to the south and well worth the short journey. Malbork is a Teutonic Knight Castle. It was built in 1406 and is the largest castle in the world of its kind. I would plan at least 3 or 4 hours to get through the whole thing. Make sure not to miss the Amber Museum that resides in the basement under the gift shop. It’s also nice to cross the bridge and get a view of the castle from across the river.

The city of Malbork itself is quite small and beside the castle you won’t find much to see. It’s mostly made up of overpriced vendors trying to capitalize on the castle’s presence by selling the same cheap and gimmicky clutter.  However, there are some pretty great ice cream shops around town that make it worth an hour-long wander.

Lithuania 

Kaunas – Just a bit inland and to the North of Poland is Kaunas, Lithuania. It’s a great place to stop for a day or two. The main street leading up to the town hall is lined with fun and traditional Lithuanian shops and art galleries. Some great things to see in this city include: The St. Michael the Archangel Church (pictured), The Žmuidzinavičius Museum (Also called the Devil Museum. This may be a little scary for the under 5 crowd), Ninth Fort, and The Kaunas Castle. Directly south of the Castle, you’ll find a lovely park. It’s great for a stroll on a sunny day. Just as the path curves, there is a little playground where the kids can stop and run around for a bit. If you continue on, you’ll eventually run into the river. Just across the bridge there is a tall staircase where you can climb to get a great view of the city. For an off-the-beaten-path experience, take a 20 min. drive east to visit the Pažaislis Monastery. Open Mon.-Fri. from 10am-5pm and Sat. from 10am-4pm.

The Hill of Crosses – One of the most interesting and unique places we’ve ever been to is the Hill of Crosses just outside of Šiauliai, Lithuania. A couple of years a go, we drove from Kaunas to Riga. This Holy site is about half way between the two cities. Travelers have been making pilgrimage to this hill for more than 200 years. There are now over 100,000 crosses that cover the site. It is honestly an amazing thing to see.

Vilnius – Truth: We’ve never actually been to Vilnius. Second Truth: We really really want to go. SO, if you make it to the Lithuanian capital before we do, let us know what you think. We’ve heard that the Uzgavenes festival held yearly in February is amazing. Lithuanian tradition says that you have to scare away the winter. So, every year men and women dress up in big devil masks and put up witches all around the city to fight off the cold winter spirits and welcome in the spring.

Latvia

Riga – Riga is one of those cities that you visit and think “I can’t believe I never thought to come here before”. It’s not Paris, it’s not Rome. But it is worth a weekend stop. Every August, this city puts on the annual Riga City Festival. We’ve been 2 years in a row now. It is definitely the time to be there. During the festival there are lots of free performances and activities. All up and down the river you’ll find lots of booths selling yummy local street food. And in the main square, there are hundreds of vendors set up to sell hand crafts and homemade goods. It really brings the city to life.

Jūrmala – This city is about a half hour drive from Riga. It’s very reminiscent of the little coastal towns that dot Oregon and Northern California. The beach itself is great but it’s also fun to meander in and out of the little shops and farmers markets inside the city.

Estonia

Tallinn – Tallinn is our very favorite of all these Baltic cities! This is one of those cities where it is best just to wander. Everything in the old town is worth seeing and exploring.  While Tallinn was originally settled as early as 2500 BC, the old town has preserved most of its historic architecture from medieval  times. The old town is divided into Upper-Town (Toompea) and Lower-Town and is best explored on foot. However, it is not all that stroller friendly. So, backpacks or baby carriers are advised. The views from Upper-Town are quite picturesque and make it worth the hike.

Outside of old town you might consider taking time to see the Estonian Open Air Museum, the Tallinn Zoo, or to have a beach day along The Gulf of Finland. While we were there in August, we also took a bus out to see the Tallinn TV Tower (about a 30 min. bus ride) which has a viewing deck on the 26th floor. On a clear day, you can see a pretty spectacular view from the top. It is a completely enclosed and very child friendly space. Just a couple of bus stops shy of the TV tower is a beautiful botanical garden as well as a ruined 14th century monastery. We cannot say enough good things about Tallinn and always recommend it to our traveler friends.